Expedition Northern Patagonia: Lake District & Aysén, Part 1 of 2 – As a team of explorers first, our Destination Experts (DEs) are constantly on the move. In this two-part edition of our Explorer’s Journal, Megan, Mikey, and Gerry embark on an expedition from Chile’s Lake District to the region of Aysén. Tag along as they begin their journey uncovering the hidden gems of the Lake District.
Hello from Chile! My name is Megan, Destination Expert at SA Expeditions. Recently I had the opportunity to explore the enchanting (and less traveled) region of Chilean Patagonia, the gorgeous Lake District! Join me along with fellow DEs Mikey and Gerry as we find the best of what this region has to offer.
Exploring a temperate rainforest (in the Rain)
Our journey began as we landed at the Puerto Montt airport in southern Chile around 10am. En route to our hotel on the scenic shores of Lake Llanquihue in the nearby town of Puerto Varas, we stopped at the Lahuen Nadi Monument, a stunning ecological park. While this was a rather soggy morning, undeterred, we strapped on our hiking boots, threw on our raincoats and headed into the forest. And while rain is rarely welcomed on a hike, the incessant drizzle only added to the authenticity of the experience as Lahuen Nadi held up its name as a temperate rainforest. And besides being home to a vast variety of plant and animal species (a true paradise for birders), this area also serves as a cultural heritage site, steeped in rich traditions and histories that hold cultural significance for the local communities. And the further we trekked along the well-marked trails, the easier it became to understand how this moss drenched enclave with its wild ferns and shadowy canopy could be responsible for conjuring up an array of mythical tales.
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After exploring the forest, we continued to the lakeside town of Puerto Varas. While the town is most notable for its iconic view of the Majestic Osorno Volcano, we had no such luck, as thick rain clouds blocked our view. Volcano or not, we were able to keep our spirits high by relaxing at the hotel’s heated pool and indulging in a delicious pisco cocktail.
Osorno Volcano and Petrohue Waterfalls
The next morning (much to our delight) we awoke to clear skies and enjoyed our breakfast with a beautiful view of the lake (complete with the towering Osorno in the backdrop). Once full and caffeinated, we enjoyed a 45-minute scenic drive along the southern shore of Lake Llanquihue to the town of Ensenada. From here, we began our ascend to the snow-capped peak (how many people can say they hiked to the top of an active volcano!). After driving most of the way up, (taking in winding mountain views and beautiful vistas of the lake below) we finally pulled over when the roads become too icy and hiked the rest of the way up. I must admit, it was a surreal experience to hear snow crunching beneath your feet when less than an hour before you were enjoying a cool spring day. At the top, we took a much-needed break at the small outpost and warmed up with a hot cup of cocoa before making our way back down.
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Once at the base of the volcano (and back to warmer temperatures) we made the short 30-minute drive over to the Petrohue Waterfalls located inside the Vicente Perez Rosales National Park. These falls (more akin to large rapids) are famous for their rushing turquoise waters set against the wild landscape with the Osorno Volcano looming above (be sure to have a fully charged camera, as this is a postcard worthy shot you don’t want to miss!). After getting our fill of photos, we went on to explore the rest of the park. Although small, Vicente Perez is well organized with ample walkways and manicured trails (there’s even a nice gift shop on site). To finish off our day we enjoyed a packed lunch at a nearby picnic table of delicious sandwiches, fresh fruit, local chocolates and craft beer.
A gourmet dinner, but first Penguins!
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The following morning, we departed Puerto Varas and headed to the picturesque island of Chiloe, the largest island in the Chiloe archipelago (about a 3-hour transfer; 2.5 hours by car and a 30-minute ferry ride). Our first stop was Punihuil Bay, a designated Natural Monument since it’s the only location in the world where Humbolt and Magellanic penguins nest side by side. While we were just shy of peak Penguin season (October to March), our expectations were low but our hopes were high for seeing these adorable creatures firsthand.
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Upon arrival to secluded Punihuil Cove, we checked in for our tour at one of the colorful wooden shacks lining the shore. Soon after, we were escorted to our small boat where we then cruised around the three main islets observing an array of marine birds. Then with a little luck on our side, we spotted a small black and white body waddling amongst the rocky cliffs. And just like that, seeing a penguin in the wild was checked off the bucket list!
After a quick lunch break at a nearby beachside restaurant, we continued two hours south to Chonchi (for reference, Chiloe Island is about the size of Puerto Rico) where we indulged in one of the best gastronomical experiences I’ve ever had.
After driving up winding roads through pastoral hills of grazing cattle, we arrive to the private residence of Chef Mauricio Ayala. After parking the car, we followed the stone pathway to a small cottage-like traditional Chilote structure set behind the main house with a sign marked Cocina (or Kitchen in Spanish). Upon entering we were all immediately captivated by the cozy atmosphere of warm candlelight, quirky décor and the rhythmic chopping and clanking of the chef putting his final touches on our 12 course meal; a private dinner party, just for us. The food, conversation and amazing Chilean wine flowed for hours – the ultimate ingredients for an unforgettable travel experience.
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Castro: Colorful houses, churches, and Folklore
On our last day, we explored some of the more important and historical towns on Chiloe Island, including the capital, Castro. The first stop of the day was a lookout point to get great shots of the colorful palafitos, or traditional stilt houses that Castro is famous for. From there, we visited several wooden churches, painted in an array of colors, which have been designated as a UNESCO World heritage site since 2000. Introduced by the Jesuits in the 17th century, these churches were built with native timber to resist the region’s humid and rainy climate (unlike the typical colonial Spanish architecture of that time).
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Afterwards, we explored the vibrant Municipal Market of Castro, where in addition to carrying the staples that you would expect to find at any market across Latin America, you could also find products that were uniquely Chilotan, including Cocha Yuyo (a type of edible red algae used in soups). In addition to the funky looking seaweed, it was quite interesting to see several stalls offering figures of mythical creatures such as witches and gnomes. Due to the years of geographic isolation from the mainland, Chiloe developed its own rich history of unique beliefs and folklore. This became even more evident as we finished our last night in the enchanting lake district with an evening stroll, making count of all the wooden statues of mythical creatures scattered about town.
And our journey continues! Keep reading as we explore the stunning region of Aysén.
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About the Author: Born and raised in Jacksonville, Florida, Megan holds a wide range of worldly experience on her belt, from being a flight attendant on a Caribbean airline to an English teacher in Vietnam. After taking a few detours, she’s found herself working with SA Expeditions, designing dream trips for explorers who want to experience her favorite parts of the world.
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Dreaming of exploring this hidden gem? Our tour to Chiloe Island & the Lake District is just for you! Contact a Destination Expert like Megan and they will lead you to the right direction.